Back in the 1980’s there was a bit of a craze for using terracotta. It was everywhere, in magazines, on TV, and it was soon being used extensively in homes and also in commercial properties like pubs and wine bars. After a few years it seemed to disappear almost as fast. This is due in part to the over-exposure and the ever changing fashions for interior design, but I also suspect that more than a few people experienced a number of headaches in terms of sealing, cleaning and maintaining it.However, all things work in circles right? Well not exactly, but I do see that Terracotta is making a little bit of a come back, not like the last time, but people are it seems one again being swayed by the rustic charms and warm tones and using it in selected areas.
So, I though it timely to do a little article on the methods for sealing terracotta. There are basically two systems (and lots of variations for both) :
1. The traditional oil & wax treatment, or,
2. The modern, synthetic approach.
1. Traditional Oil & Wax.
Many Tilers still prefer this method, largely I think because this is the method they were taught. One of the most popular methods for sealing terracotta is to use a combination of boiled linseed oil and then polish with a neutral Beeswax.
First the tile is treated with several coats of boiled linseed oil; the oil is spread with a cloth or sponge as evenly as possible over the terracotta, before grouting. The first coat is the hardest as the oil is pulled into the extremely porous tile very quickly, so it takes a bit of skill and practice to get an even coat. Subsequent coats are a little easier, until the tile approaches saturation. Care must be taken not to over-apply the oil, making sure any surplus is not left to dry, as this would become sticky and require scraping off. Once the tile is sufficiently sealed (it will take several coats) it will also be considerably darker. It is the oil that gives terracotta that characteristic amber shade that many people like. Once dry, they can be grouted. When the grouting is completely dry, the tiles can be finished off with a coat or two of wax polish – there are many to choose from, some in paste form that require thinning with white spirits (a messy job) and others that come ready to use as a ‘floor wax’.
The advantage of this system is really just aesthetic, if you like that ‘warm look’ then go for this. However, there are several drawbacks: It is a much more involved process in the beginning; ongoing maintenance is also more arduous, the wax will quickly dull through traffic and cleaning, thus it will require frequent re-polishing and this is a hands and knees job, unless you are prepared to purchase a buffing machine. After a while, the wax will build up in layers and will start to actually attract and hold dirt, becoming darker and even tacky to the touch. At this point it needs stripping off, right back to the tile surface using solvent stripers (the oil will not be removed) and the whole polishing process starts again.
2. The Modern, Synthetic Approach
While possibly not offering quite the same depth of colour as oil and wax (it should be pointed out that not everyone likes that artificially darkened colour anyway) is much simpler and far easier to maintain. Again there are several propriety products available. Water-based, acrylic type coatings sealers are safe and relatively easy to use, offering both a surface seal and a degree of shine or gloss in one operation. This saves both time and money. Typically several coats of this type of product can be applied to the tile, depending on its porosity and the degree of sheen you are after. After grouting another coat may be applied. And that is it, job done. As it is a surface coating, just like wax it will of course wear, but it is more resilient and will not dull quite so quickly. With proper care, using neutral cleaners it can actually last for up to 3 years, but typically will not require any topping up before 12 months (this is dependent on many things of course). When it does start to dull down, there is no need to strip; instead a fresh coat can be applied right over what is already there.
If a very glossy finish is required, like a highly buffed wax, then adding a coat or two of a sacrificial acrylic polish on top of your coating sealer will add that high-gloss look. In addition to this, as it is also a sacrificial layer, it helps to protect and prolonging the life of the sealer beneath.
Copyright Ian Taylor and The Tile and Stone Blog.co.uk, 2013. See copyright notice above.
Hi Ian,
Your blog is great – really useful, thanks. I’m hoping you can advise me. I have just had large terracotta floor tiles laid in our new bathroom (they are 40 x 40 cm and about an inch thick). Our builders provided Liquid Science Tile Seal & Protect and I have applied about 4 coats and it seems to have worked, when I tested, the tiles don’t seem to absorb water, but after sealing, the surface of the tiles looks exactly the same and I expected them to darken a little or become more shiny/polished in some way. It seems this product leaves an invisible finish. I’m not after a heavy waxy look, but I didn’t expect the tiles to remain quite as fresh and ‘chalky’ as they do. What would you recommend to finish them with?
Thanks,
Louise
Hi Louise,
Ok, from what I know about that product, it is a solvent based impregnator – not the first thing I would think of for terracotta, especially indoors. You are absolutely correct in thinking it has made no visible difference to the colour and shine of the tile – it is not intended to. It is intended to provide near invisible stain protection, beneath the surface, leaving no visible change to the look of the tile. There may be some top coat/ synthetic polish type product you could apply but unfortunately, you are now not going to get any kind of colour enrichment as either the old fashioned linseed oil or modern enhancers will now not be able to penetrate due to the time being sealed.
Also, you may have to wait a month or so for traffic and cleaning to kill any surface tension/resistance before any kind of surface coating could be applied. I don’t currently have a topical coating that would work over an impregnator but others may – for example, you may have some luck with something like HG protective coat satin finish – but check with them first to see if it is compatible.
Hope this helps
Ian
Hi Ian
Thanks for your reply. I am resigned/resolved to having no shine now. Actually I quite like them this way. However from what you have said, I’m wondering if we’ve done enough to protect the tiles for bathroom use. We just used the product that was recommended to us. The tiles have had around 4-5 coats of sealant. Do you think the tiles will be fine with this sealant alone or should we be doing something else to protect them?
Many thanks,
Louise
Hi Ian,
Thank you your blog is really useful. I’m hoping you can advise me. I have read all the posts and I think I know what to do but just to be on the safe side thought I would check.
We have a large covered porch area and about 4 years ago,when the porch was built, had a terracotta tiled floor laid. At that time we treated the floor with HG Hagesan impregnating sealer. After the application the tiles didn’t look any different they were still powdery dull looking and pale. So now I want to give it another go. I have done a water test and the water sinks in very quickly. I want to achieve the linseed and wax look. So something that will darken the tiles as linseed would and give them a waxed look. Now after reading all your replies I am thinking that I should not use linseed oil and wax but a synthetic product? If that is your recommendation could you please advise what synthetic product(s) I should use to achieve the linseed and wax look.
Thanks,
Karen
Hi , 4 to 5 coats sound fine, after that it starts to give diminishing returns –
Ian
Hi, 4 to 5 coats sound fine. After that you will get diminishing returns anyway
Ian
Hi Karen
The synthetic /acrylic alternatives to wax are easy to use but they do not tend to colour the terracotta much. You might actually want to use the oil method if that is the look you are going for. However wax is not really that great in an outdoor situation, even if it is partially covered. You could try linseed oil ab=nd leave it without any kind top coat. Or, if you keep the oil to the bare minimum you may be able to find a proprietary acrylic coating that still bonds (you need a bit of surface porosity for them to bond). I am not sure of any brands, but perhaps HG still to a top coat product (they used to have a product called Mexican tile glaze).
Hope this helps
Ian
Hi Ian,
Thanks for this helpful article. I’ve just bought some reclaimed terracotta tiles in a mix of soft tones. When sealing I’m keen not to lose their light colour but with so many sealers available I’m not sure which is best for maintaining the tiles raw colours. The tiles are going in the downstairs bedroom of a barn and the small bathroom.
Lubelska sell a Natural Finish sealer that’s a water-borne fluropolymer dispersion. But I’m keen to use a recommended brand . Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
Thanks,
Kylie
Hi I would like to have someone come to clean our terracotta floor. We are in Surrey can you recommend someone. Thank you
Hi Kylie,
I had not heard of that brand but looking at their information, it seems to be a typical water-based fluoropolymer impregnating sealer – so it would do what you are looking for, namely, maintain the natural colour and look of the tiles. I will not apply any kind of sheen or surface polish (they appear to have another product for that but you would have to check whether they are either/or choices or if they could be used in conjunction with each other).
It is not a particularly expensive product compare with some other brands so I am not sure where it sits in terms of quality. Perhaps ask them for a sample to test – you can do a very small test on a small offcut of material, apply the recommended number of coats let it cure and then try some water drop and stain tests.
Hope this helps
Ian
Hi Liz,
Thanks for your question; I do not, as a rule, recommend 3rd party contractors – for obvious reasons, I hope; I have no control over what they do so I cannot take any responsibility for their actions. Also, I simply do not have a list of reliable contractors all over the country. You might be better asking on social media for recommendations from your local area.
Having said that I do know one guy whose work I have seen and I know him to be reliable (although again I stop short of making a formal recommendation) however I am not sure he is still in the business and also, he is based in East Sussex, not Surry, and without contacting him I am not sure how far he would travel. If you have no luck locally and would like me to make contact with him and put you in touch come back to me.
Hope this helps,
Ian
Hi Ian, great article- thank you! We have bought some reclaimed terracotta tiles and would like to use the natural method of sealing. When you refer to boiled linseed is there a process of boiling it- does it need to be boiled then cooked or can you buy a product without boiling? Some of the tiles are also a little rough and I was wondering whether it would be possible to finely sand them. Many thanks, Charlotte
Hi Charlotte,
OK, the ‘Boiled Linseed Oil’ is not actually boiled. And it comes ready for use straight off the shelf so requires no further processing by you. Raw or untreated/unprocessed oil will take a very long to dry or cure we are talking weeks. When some oils are boiled they cure much faster -within hours, but treating the oil with additives such as some solvents has the same effect – acceleration of the curing time so it is referred to as ‘boiled’ as it acts like a boiled oil.
Most linseed oils sold in builder’s merchants and DIY stores are not raw and so are suitable for sealing (they will be for wood or stone/tile etc).
Regarding sanding down rough spots, sure you can use a fine emery paper (Wet n Dry) and rub down some of the rougher spots – but please test this in an inconspicuous area first to see if you are happy with the results.
Hope this helps
Ian
Hi Ian, I’ve just bought some new terracotta tiles for my bathroom, hallway & conservatory and am very confused about how to seal them. I would prefer a more natural rustic look than a heavy glossy shine. Should I go for an impregnator or a sealant (assuming I’m going down the modern route)? Thanks, Emma
Hi Emma, it is a personal choice, an impregnator leaves NO sheen at all, they stay looking absolutely matt, and so feel this makes them stay looking dull and lifeless. If you go for colour enhancing impregnator, then again you get NO shine but you do get a deepening of the colour – but if you go this way there is now way back, you cannot undo it. and you cannot, successfully, or at least easily, add a surface treatment (like wax or polish) later on. Most people prefer some degree of sheen, not a high gloss but a kind of satin sheen, we don’t currently have one but there are plenty on the market – just check they are LOW sheen, they will then dull-down even further and look less shiny again over time. And, they will require reapplication from time to time, but overall they probably give the best compromise for cleanability.
Hope that helps
Ian
Hello Ian! We had terracotta tiles installed in our home, the contractor applied Taj Mahal sealer which only lasts a few weeks before I have to reapply. I like the glossy look and cannot figure out what product you are reccomending for a more permanent sealant.
Thank you,
Nina
HI Nina,
Ok You are in the USA, I do not know the brand yo mention but there are several gloss type coating sealers and finishes on the market (made by the likes of Aqua Mix and Mapei USA to name two in your market).
I would look around and see what they say about durability – however, bear in mind most high gloss coatings are on the surface and therefore subject to wear and traffic. If your situation has high foot traffic, an intense and regular cleaning regime using strong cleaning chemicals, etc then you will have significantly reduced life, Having said that you should be able to get to 6 months to a year between recoats.
Hope that helps
Ian
Hi Ian
I have a terracotta traditional pamment tiled kitchen floor but it has as a lot of stain marks that I can’t get out with regular cleaning how would you recommend getting them out I think some are oil stains
Your help would be appreciated a great deal thank you
Linda
Hi Ian
We are about to install a commercial kitchen in a room in our pub that has some lovely terracotta tiles. Lovely but certainly over 100 years old. They will need sealing to pass Environmental Health regulations and to sustain the onslaught of a daily mop and clean. First of all is there a product that can provide adequate protection? Would we be better off carefully removing the tiles?
Thanks Keith
Hi Linda,
Apologies I missed this with everything that is going on. Usually, floors like this need an occasional deep clean. For this, we would recommend using a high pH product such as our own Xtreme Clean. Make sure that you protect any water-sensitive surface (this might include adjacent wood flooring or MDF end panels, often kickboards/plinths can be removed) so take care to prevent such surfaces from sitting in water for any length of time.
Dilute the cleaner – say 1:4, apply it to the floor surface, leave it to dwell for 20 minutes or so. Agitate/scrub the floor thoroughly with a scrub brush or scrubbing machine. Pick up the dirty solution – use a mop or better still get hold of a wet-vac.
Then (and don’t skip this part) rinse – apply fresh clean water with a clean mop and go over the floor again, then pick up the water, and finally buff the floor dry with an old towel (you can just wrap it around a broom or flat mop).
This should give the tiles and the joints a thorough clean, it may also bring off any traces of old sealer or wax polish (so you may have to look at what you want to put back afterwards). When it is dry you can then look in more detail and any remaining oil or other spot stains. For oil, you could try scrubbing locally with a stronger dilution of the cleaner, if that does not work, then consider making a poultice. To make a poultice get some fuller’s earth, then make a solution of 1 part water, 1 part hi pH cleaner, add a little of that liquid to some of the fullers earth in a clean bucket to make a paste (it’s basically a nice clean wet mud), apply this to the spot stain, make the poultice about 20% larger in diameter than the stain itself, allow it to be about 5 to 10 mm thick, then cover the paste with plastic (cling film or a sandwich/food bag etc) you can tape or weight the edges although that is not necessary – we are just allowing it to take longer to dry out. Punch a hole or two in the plastic and leave it for 24 hours. Remove the plastic and leave it a while longer – to dry out fully. Then use a plastic scraper to scrape the dried poultice up brush it clean then rinse the floor with a soap solution (or more of the hi pH solution, but it can be very dilute) and a mildly abrasive pad (just to remove any poultice residue), rinse and buff. When dry see if the poultice has removed the stain, if it has but there is still some left, or if the stains appear even more intense – then it is working (it has drawn the stain nearer the surface) – just repeat the process.
Hope this helps
Ian
Hi Keith,
OK, first question what do you mean by terracotta? Typically, in British buildings of that time period you are talking about either Victorian-style unglazed tiles, often in red, black, yellow and brown, often laid in a simple to intricate geometric patterns. Or, old-style thick, rustic paver or quarry tiles. Both tend to be a little denser than what we usually describe as terracotta (the very porous red/orange tiles of Italy, Spain and Mexico for example).
The next thing to say is that if the floor is over 100 years old, then do you know what the substructure is? Quite often there may be no real concrete base, they could be laid on old fashioned lime mortar directly over earth, or there could be a slate ‘damp course’ somewhere beneath. This is important as it can have implications for damp and moisture (although you would perhaps be aware of any such issues if there were any) but also, if you were to consider lifting them, you may find that you then have to excavate quite deep in order to install a properly laid hardcore and concrete base complete with a damp proof membrane. In addition to the work, disruption and cost, there is a significant time factor too, as the new concrete will need 6 weeks or so to dry before you can apply new tiles or another surface.
So, cleaning and sealing may be the best option. I am not familiar with current Environmental Health guidelines for floors in food prep areas, but I am aware that they can be open to local interpretation – so you may need to check with your local authority as to what they will accept. In the past there was confusion when the guidelines called for smooth and cleanable surface, certain soft flooring companies took that to mean you could not use tiles at all (they were trying to persuade people that the grout joints in tiling meant the floor was not smooth and so their ‘continuous’ vinyl type products were all you could use etc. This was not the case and in my experience, all you had to demonstrate was that the floor was clean and that it was possible to maintain the floor in that clean state.
As for sealers, there are two types, coating and impregnating. On the face of it, it might seem that a coating sealer would be the best option as they put a barrier between the floor surface and the dirt. However I would advise against one as the amount of foot traffic, and the more intensive cleaning regime that is inevitable, will very quickly remove such a product, and it will do so unevenly, making the floor dull and grubby in high traffic areas and still retaining a degree of sheen in the low traffic areas -it can quickly look a bit of a mess. You can find yourself wanting to frequently re-apply the sealer and that is not practical once the kitchen is up and running. Secondly, coating sealers, when wet, especially wet with moisture containing some oils and grease – can make the floor more slippery than it was before – this is not good in a commercial kitchen. Lastly, if the floor is really old and laid on lime mortar adding a coating sealer can sometimes cause additional issues, as they are not all as breathable as a good impregnating sealer.
So I would be looking at a premium impregnating sealer – one that is designed to penetrate the surface and provide stain protection, reaction time and at the same time preserves the tile’s natural look and surface, helping to maintain it’s natural coefficient of friction characteristics.
Before you can do this, however, perhaps the most important thing to think about is a deep clean. I have detailed this many times on the blog but using a hi Ph degreasing cleaner (like our own All for Stone Xtreme Clean) in conjunction with a commercial (hireable) rotary scrubber and wet vac. I have been involved in several commercial kitchens in the past where the client was ready to rip the floor up and replace it with new ‘anti-slip’ tiles all the added hassle, considerable expense and time, because of recurring staff slip-fall issues. In every case, a deep clean resolved the issue. The problem was not the tiles, but the build-up of grease and detergent residue on the surface, due to inadequate and improper cleaning regime. The staff were slipping on the patina that had built up on top of the tiles, the actual surface of the tiles, when clean was more than slip-resistant enough, meaning that specially profiled slip-resistant tiles were not necessary, the added bonus there was that profiled/slip-resistant tiles are much harder to keep clean.
So my recommendation would be to carry out a deep clean. Apply an impregnating sealer. Devise an appropriate routine cleaning and periodic deep cleaning regime and double-check with your local EH dept that they are satisfied with your approach.
If you would like any help with a written procedure, please use the contact form on here to email me
Hope that helps
Ian
Good morning Ian
We are just in the process of laying terracotta tiles in a patio area.
Can you recommend a synthetic sealer please. I am not looking to change the appearance of the tiles.
Thank you in advance
Kind regards
Sue
Hi,
It depends on whether you are looking for a sheen or gloss of some kind (which most people would be I guess) or a natural, no-sheen flat finish. For the latter, you need a good quality water-based (non-enhancing) impregnating sealer – the are many out there on the market. If you are looking for the former, then you could try LTP (they have two coating sealers, called Iron Wax (I believe there are 2 versions os it) also Lithofin, HG make similar products.
Hope this helps
Ian
Hi
As terracotta are made of clay I have a question in that area.
I have red clay bricks in an outdoor area , that I would like to give a wet look finish, with if possible a sealer that lets the brick breath.
Do you recommend any product
Thank you
Hello,
We are in the process of renovating and extending a property, have underfloor heating going in throughout the downstairs of the property and will be using the Pamments on the entire downstairs floor. Having received a very large order of pamments and had to check them all for damage my next step is to seal them. My builder (the person who will lay them) has recommended that I brush them down with a brush, and seal with linseed oil and white spirit. Would I need to dilute the linseed oil if I used boiled linseed oil? Also I’m sealing the tiles before being laid and then intending to do a final seal and wax once they have been laid in the property. Is that something you would recommend? If with sealing them this way is advised would I seal the entire tile or just the top surface?
Many thanks
Mary
Hi,
I don’t recommend a particular product but most sealers being sold for clay/stone/brick etc should be breathable – to some extent at least. For a wet look, you are going to need some kind of resin or similar type sealer. Some work better than others and some are easier to work with than others. We have one called Enhance n Seal – it is fantastic but a little tricky tow rok with (you have to guarantee dry conditions before during and after for a few days). Not sure what you have available in Ireland, best to see what is available then make sure to check the instructions and specifications. When you are happy do a test – most wet looks sealers are not easily reversible.
Hope that helps
Ian
OK, no problem with your plan.
First of all yes, brush them all down to remove any loose dust etc. Also, if they are reclaimed, try to make sure they are free of salt efflorescence. Make sure they are dry. Re thinning with white spirit – do a test, often not necessary, if the pamments are really dense and the boiled linseed oil is not soaking in then ok try thinning a little with white spirit, do a test with and without, see which is easiest and gives a nice uniform covering/penetration. Do not leave it to sit or ‘pool’ for longer than say 15 minutes on the surface, move it along or wipe off surplus to leave the surface dry and free from oil, you are aiming to get the oil IN to the brick, not ON it.
Re sealing before laying – great idea, at least the oil part (personally I think you will need more than 1 coat of oil, I would leave the last coat until after grouting, as you suggest – (so that the grout gets a coat too) so if your testing shows you need 3 coats (which you might) then do 2 before and leave the 3rd until after installation. This way you will protect the tiles from staining but also seal the grout. The big issue with sealing before fixing is space, having somewhere where you can lay them out on the floor or tables where you have room to walk between them and not have to stack them on top of each other (they will stick and make marks).
No need to seal the 6 sides – there is big debate about 6 sided sealing – it could help prevent salt efflorescence but it can also stop the tiles from bonding properly to the adhesive/mortar – I would stick with the tried and tested here and seal the top only.
Hope that helps
Ian
Hi Ian,
I’ve got 30m2 of hand made terracotta tiles which will be laid outside in an partly covered area.
I’mConfused on which way too go boiled linseed oil and wax or modern
Any advice on which would be better as there’s so many options I’ve been advise the HG product might be best but I’m trying too limit the amount of times I’ve got too retreat
Also can I lay using a cement sand mix and SBR the backs?
Hi
Do I put boiled linseed oil on before or after sealing if I want to use a sealer with boiled linseed oil
Hi
Before, for sure, you will be using the boiled linseed oil as a pre sealer. However, this will only really work with a ‘topical’ sealer that works for pre-sealed tile – the oil is in effect a sealer itself. So you might struggle. I think you can get some acrylic coatings that replace the wax that would work in this way. Best to do a test first.
Hope this helps
Ian
Hi Gary,
OK, for partly covered – I am reading ‘outside’ Also you want to limit the number of times you need to reseal.
For me this rules out oil and wax on both counts. Most would simply opt here for multiple coats of a good water-based impregnator – mainly because of the potential exposure to the elements and the inevitable wear. You could try an acrylic topical coating but you are going to have to re-apply frequently – yearly for example.
Hope this helps
Ian
Hi Ian,
All the comments, and your answers, are very helpful. Thank you!
I have been experimenting with making my own 8×8” terracotta floor tiles with clay and sand dug up on our property on San Juan Island, WA. A friend put 5 of them in his kiln and they came out beautiful! I wish I could post a picture.
They each have a different ratio of clay:sand; further testing by me will determine which ratio is superior. Anyway, I am now experimenting with finishes and the traditional boiled linseed oil might be my favorite so far. I am going to pick up some local bees wax today and wonder if you have any tips on how I might render the bees wax down so I can buff it on as a finish. Should I try to thin it with some turpentine? Should I just try and rub it on as a block of wax and then go at it with some elbow grease? Thanks so much for your help!
Hi Elliot,
Sounds interesting. I have not used solid beeswax, I have no idea how you would render it. Most waxes for terracotta type materials are already prepared, for use, I am pretty sure they are or can be thinned with white spirit ot turps, just as long as those impart no colour of their own. I would just buy a proprietary terracotta wax.
Hope this helps
Ian
Thanks for this article, Ian, it has been very useful to read.
We’ve just be given a pile of handmade, 2cm thick rectangular terracotta tiles, by Artisans of Devizes, for free and thought of laying them in a garden room, as well as (possibly if enough left over) some in a light shaft that is exposed to the elements.
We’re not looking for any great colour enhancement really – maybe just a bit richer than the very dusty look it is now.
We would prefer a synthetic impregnator.
Question: do we have to use this on the tiles before grouting, so the tiles are not dirtied by the grouting process?
Bit unsure about the order of things.
Also, is there a synthetic impregnati we could use both indoors (garden room) and outdoors (light shaft) that will protect from staining, dirt and rainwater too?
Thanks very much for your help.
Jessica.
Hi Jessica,
OK, a couple of things here. First of all, I suspect like many terracottas, they are not 100% ideal for use outside in the UK. OK, a small area that is exposed but there may be some protection from walls etc. There is a school of thought that trying to seal them outside is virtually impossible as the pores are so big that no impregnator is going to be able to completely protect them – they may help though. Coating sealers often used on this type of material is not really suitable outside either.
A synthetic impregnator, unless it is designed as an enhancer is not going to darken the tiles at all, especially water-based ones (which would typically be better than solvent-based products on this type of material). So any effect on the current look the tiles have now is going to be marginal at best, but may actually be zero.
So, a good quality water-based impregnator will help with stain protection and to a degree, rainwater, but it will not make the tiles waterproof. The dustiness will go over time with use/wear and tear – the tiles will develop a patina of their own. Over time too they will begin to develop a different patina inside and out – so they are not going to remain looking identical as they are going to exposed to different things; the elements. cleaning regimes etc. So you might consider a coating type sealer (I see your tile supplier has both a satin sheen (coating) and an impregnator available) for indoors and an impregnator outside. Yes, they will have different finishes but the coating sealer may make it easier to maintain and look after the floor indoors (although it will require periodic reapplication).
Yes, I would pre-seal (with whichever sealer type you choose, do not mix them by the way, do not pre-seal with an impregnator, then follow up with the coating – unless the products you have specifically say you can) before grouting to help prevent the grout from getting deep into the tile surface.
One last thing; if the tiles you have acquired at no brand new, i.e they are reclaimed/previously installed, then stay away from any enhancing impregnator as they require previously unsealed tiles in order to give good results.
Hope this helps
Ian
Thank you very much Ian, that’s very helpful.
No, they are brand new and raw terracotta tiles, just a style that makes them look old.
You’re right about them going outdoors, but even if we had enough to do the light shaft, it is a very protected area of only about 1.5sqm and we were going to lay a bit of DPM down underneath as well, to protect from frost.
The main area we are planning to use them in, is in a garden room that won’t see any heavy traffic.
It’s fine if they stay as natural as they are now. I quite like this look actually.
So for inside: as I understand it, would you recommend a synthetic coating sealer over an impregnator indoors?
Is there a particularly good one out there, as I have searched and searched but have been slightly overwhelmed by the choice available!
Thank you again for your time.
Jessica.
Hi Jessica, understood on the outside ones; should be fine.
I am not recommending a coating over an impregnator – it is a personal choice, there are pros and cons to both. As a coating sealer sits on top of the surface and actually coats the surface, it forms a physical barrier. This can make it easier to wipe/mop away stains (depending on how textured the surface is) It can add a (varying) degree of darkening/enhancement – it is basically a synthetic alternative to wax. The downside is that it is in the wear zone, so will traffic off, be affected by cleaning chemicals, will dull down in the traffic areas and will need reapplication from time to time (could be every 2 to 3 years or so). An impregnator will not add any character to the look and feel and may not make the floor quite as easy to clean/mop – but will give long-lasting stain protection and good reaction time – which is what they are designed to do. If the tiles are very textured they will inevitably ‘hold’ more dirt than if they are smooth, some of this texture may get filled with grout, even if you pre-seal, and this can be an acceptable look for terracotta, over time this will settle as the harsher edges get knocked off so to speak.
There is a lot to choose from on the market, your own supplier has one or each. I cannot advise you on which is best – you have to decide which if the two scenarios appeals the most – synthetic wax look (slightly sheeny/shiny), or lower maintenance completely natural impregnator look.
Regarding brands – again there are a lot, LTP has some good coatings I understand, such as Ironwax, also you could look at http://www.extensive.co.uk – they have both Lithofin and an Italian brand called Lantania – give them a call – you might have to narrow it down to a couple and buy one of each to try on spare tiles – seeing is believing
Hope this helps
Ian
Hello Ian,
Thanks again for all your advice, it proving invaluable!
Ok, so we have decided to only use the raw terracotta tiles indoors now.
I’ve seen the LTP H20 Mattstone sealer, which as you said doesn’t really enhance the colour much at all, but gives stain resistance and may need several coats from what I’ve gathered, I understand that I’ll also have to use this before grouting to give some protection,
I’ve found Lithofin on Amazon, but it does seem to be a semi gloss impregnator and apparently the solvent smell is awful.
Whichever I go for, I’d also love to be able to use it on an exposed new brick wall we will have in our kitchen, and I’m wondering which would be best for impregnating the terracotta floor and the brick wall.
I like the idea of a semi matt finish rather than fully matt, but from your experience of Lithofin, isn’t that a wet look once dry?
Thanks again Ian.
Happy Christmas! 🎄
Quick last question!
1. I’ve decided to go with Lithofin Stain Stop for our internal terracotta tiles.
I’ll put a layer on before they are grouted, as you advise, but can we then clean the tiles with grout cleaner before reapplying the final coat of Lithofin, or is that going to affect the Lithofin?
Thanks again Ian,
All the best,
Jessica.
Hi,
It should be fine, you are going to put final coats on after so it will be fine.
Make sure to allow correct drying times at each stage: Allow the sealer to cure fully before grouting. Then after cleaning the grout, allow it to cure for a good few days before cleaning any remaining residue if using an acidic cleaner. Then make sure to rinse well and again allow to dry thoroughly before applying final coats of sealer
Kind regards
Ian
Hi Ian, your information is really useful and I’m wonderingif you can advise me. I’m in the process of sealing some rustic terracotta tiles for our hall before they’re laid. I’m using Stone Essentials Stone Shield which is the product that the company I bought them from recommended I use. It’s a satin finish that won’t alter the colour which is fine. I’m now on my second coat, but they don’t appear to repell water at all which is what the tiler suggested they should do. I’m wondering if it’s the type of sealer I’m using or if I should keep going until I get water to form droplets. It suggests that you can only apply a max of six coats. Thanks a lot for your advice. Thanks, Lucy
Hi Lucy,
OK, I do not have actual experience with this exact product but it appears to be a generic acrylic type coating sealer. It says allow min 1-hour between coats. So, make sure you do not rush between coats the coat must be dry before you apply the next one (otherwise you are just adding to that coat, forcing more into the stone but not necessarily allowing it to set at the surface). It may well take more coats, it all depends on the porosity of the tiles. So, keep going, all the way up to 6 if you have to, but don’t rush, leave adequate time between coats for each coat to set. It would be good if you can apply at least one of the coats after grouting has been done (and allowed a few days to thoroughly dry). This way you also seal the grout joint. Hopefully, if you can get away with 3 or 4 coat before grouting and then 1 or 2 after that would be ideal.
It should start to build up its repellency of water after a few coats – it has to ‘fill’ a potentially uneven surface until it can start to coat the top – if that makes sense – so it should start to come together and look more even and less patchy with more coats. Don’t be concerned if it does not create perfect round blobs (beads) of water – that is not the goal – and people seem to get very fixated on how good their sealer ‘beads’ water. What you are looking for is that it holds out the water, at least for a while, even if the water lays flat and spreads out, compare it to an unsealed tile, you should see the unsealed one wet out (go dark) very quickly and the water get sucked in like blotting paper, vs the sealed one. You should see the water sitting at the surface for much longer – but here is the key – not forever, these sealers do not make the surface waterproof, that is not their job. Their job is to provide reaction time; time for you to react to contaminants and wipe them up. A properly sealed tile (with this type of sealer) will have a nice even finish/sheen and will hold out the water for a few minutes, after which it will start to soak in, but in a very slow way, and you might see a slight darkening – so, it keeps much of the water out, for a much longer time, and in doing so keeps contaminants at the surface where they can be more easily removed.
Hope that helps
Ian
Thanks a lot for your help Ian. I’ll keep going with them. Kind regards, Lucy
Hi Ian,
I have read previous comments which are very helpful and wonder if you can help me. I have a 40yo pamment floor in reasonable condition in the kitchen and a corridor. Three months it was cleaned and sealed with a matt finish (as requested) but it shows dirt even more than before, mostly food dirt. Another company says every matt cleaner allows dirt to sink in and recommends an acrylic sealer, Seal and Go. They say that it will result in a shiny surface but they will only put on a few coats. I understand it’s a trade-off between effective sealing and a shiny surface. I would be really grateful if you could tell me if it is possible to have an effective seal and a matt surface. Many thanks! John
Hi John.
OK, this issue here is the inherent texture and porosity of terracotta. If you have had it deep cleaned recently and thus many years of polish/sealer/wax/ dirt and or whatever else was there then it will be very open again. Impregnating sealers work by sitting just under the surface, so as to provide a stain resisting safety net without sitting on the surface and causing some kind of coating sheen etc. With such porous material, any impregnator is going to go much deeper into the surface than it would on more dense material (by comparison) and so they often are not the most efficient method to keep stains under control – contaminants are simply deposited in the porosity above where the sealer eventually lies. Still easier to clean than with no sealer. By contrast, a coating such as the acrylic surface sealers you mention will sit on top, and form a barrier (albeit a temporary one) which you may well find makes the floor easier to keep clean. Yes, the downside is this is a visible coating, (which can be glossy or satin depending on the product). However, on balance I would have to concur with the advice you have been given. Bear in mind also that coating sealers do not last, they are on the surface, so they wear, they are worn by foot traffic and diminished via cleaning regimes. As a consequence, they need reapplication at intervals (the frequency of which is dependent on a number of issues).
They are often at their best (in terms of aesthetics) after they have been down a little while as some of that initial shine will wear down, then at some point, they need to be redone. overtime though after a few reapplications you may see the need to re-seal them less and less as because of the porosity some of that sealer also gets into the tile and does a similar job to an impregnator.
Hope that helps
Ian
That’s clear and helpful. Thank you! We will consider whether the trade-off between protection and brightness is worth it. It probably is.
Hi, Ian,
I hope you can help will this challenge—-A terra cotta Buddha statue, 28″ tall, 24″ wide, discovered in an abandoned warehouse and buried under rubbish; some portions charred by a fire, a portion soaked by rain from a collapsed roof…a remarkably lucky Buddha of at least 50 years old, probably much older. We think he might have been made or traveled through the Philippines based on a 1973 Manilla newspaper scrap stuffed inside. Total damage: a chipped toe, charred back and hand. I washed him off with gentle detergent and water. This produced overnight an enormous amount of white efflorescence which I gently removed with a soft brush and fine sandpaper, repeated several times over several days until I quit using water and started covering him with a giant plastic leaf bag. (He’s so big and heavy I can’t carry him in and out of the house.)
I want to protect this unique statue of raw terra cotta, and have a place for him outside under a tree, dispensing knowledge just by sitting there.
So what’s the best plan to protect him? I want to keep a nice patina, showing the character and marks. So I’m thinking a sealant and then some protective coating?
Thanks, Joel Dobson
OK, interesting.
Terracotta can be very delicate. IF your climate is likely to get frost overnight at any time them actually there is a school of thought that says sealing might not be a good idea. The reason is that the types of sealers we talk about, whilst not being 100% waterproofers, even so, they can still slow down the movement of moisture through materials considerable. For most materials this is good but it might be argued in some cases, that it can lead to trapping moisture – as moisture can find a way into the materials from the base, back etc – where it makes contact with the grout. The point it as the material is so porous, there is always a way for moisture to get in, and if it is sealed, even with a modern, breathable impregnator, and it then freezes, the sealer, in some cases might actually raise the likely hood of frost damage.
I suspect though that if you are able to keep it sheltered you may be ok.
The type of sealer I would recommend would be a water-based impregnator, not sure you will get wax to go on over though as the sealer will want to repel it. But before you seal it you want to make sure you have dealt with the efflorescence. It might be worth looking at a product by Aqua Mix called Eff-Ex – if you google them and call their tech services and describe the issue they can tell you more about the product). When yo are certain you have the Eff under control you can look into sealing it.
Hope this helps
Ian
Very interesting read. For exterior tiles the reviews of water based sealers are mixed with many people saying it doesn’t last long.
Do you have any thoughts on using a resin sealer such as Resiblock for exterior use where there is some water ingress from a tiled roof terrace?
Hi, OK Resin type sealers may be a little tougher, but they are not without their issues (one being the expense).
On their website, the company you mention, states that the life expectancy of their product is only 5 years, and the coverage is around 3 m2/lt first coat 6 m2/lt second coat – so you need a lot.
However, the issue is that sealers in general for tiles are ‘stain resistors’ not water-proofers. They may well reduce the amount of water permitted to pass through the actual tile and grout joint, but not 100%. But if you have water ingress from the tiled terrace then you have bigger, underlying issues. Water will find the easiest route and you need to investigate your construction as the most likely cause of water ingress is improper design and construction of the tiled terrace. Now amount of sealing the tiles afterwards, whatever the sealing product, in my opinion, is going to fix that.
Hope that helps
Ian